The story
Der Kreuzwirt in Thal brings a refreshing wind to traditional Styrian cooking within a setting that balances rustic warmth with refined technique. Under chef Walter Pieber and sous-chef Claudia Pekarz, the kitchen bridges the gap between Omas Suppentopf and cosmopolitan influences. The approach earns recognition from the Gault&Millau guide, which awards the establishment 12.5 points for serving genuine house-style meals alongside creative interpretations. Roman and Claudia Pekarz lead the family operation, ensuring every plate reflects both regional roots and a willingness to look over the table's edge.
The Austrian kitchen anchors its menu with staples like smoked trout served whole and the celebrated Steirische Käferbohne, yet often surprises with sweeter-sour crispy pork belly sourced from Thaler farmers. Seasonal vegetable preparations stand equal to meat dishes, offering solo asparagus from Kammerhof or fried potato dumplings. Heartfelt comfort includes Beuschel paired with sour cream cheese dumplings, while the counter displays Claudias berühmte Cremeschnitte with vanilla cream sandwiched between flaky pastry layers. Offal also shines through dishes like Schweineleber and Rahmherzl seasoned generously with marjoram.
Guests navigating the regional cuisine can choose between the urige Gaststube with its card tables and beer taps, or retreat to the Genussgarten beneath ancient lindens, a space described as a nature-green delight. The interior juxtaposes an old spruce wood planing bench with an elegant truffle grater, reflecting a blend of rustic roots and refined detail. Whether arriving in formal wear or traditional dirndl, diners join a crowd where playing cards and à la carte orders coexist seamlessly. The attached café, die Thalerei, continues this accessible approach with casual items like the Beisserei featuring beef cheek goulash and toasted eggs.
Recognition
Ambience
Location