The story
At Kabuff in Graz, Chef Eva Schnabl guides a regional Austrian cooking style where the Eggenberg garden supplies the daily harvest. Flour from Haindl Mühle forms the foundation of their daily baked sourdough. Her approach treats vegetables as the main event, drawing on training at Coda in Berlin and Mühltalhof. The menu shifts with Steiermark farm deliveries, keeping every plate tied to the season.
A crisp Eichblattsalat gains depth through marinated apricot, chili, and fresh melissa. Kohlrabi gets sliced into linguine shapes, then tossed with salted lemon and garden herbs. For heartier orders, butter-tender venison loin rests on the Robata grill, sourced directly from a hunting friend. Dessert favors a properly executed Crêpe Suzette paired with tart gooseberries pulled straight from the property. This grounded approach earned the kitchen a 14.5 rating from Gault&Millau, which praised the precise herb work and careful meat handling.
The dining space removes any barrier between the kitchen and guests, letting the aroma of fresh bread drift through the room. Tables are set for shared plates, encouraging a relaxed rhythm where diners pass bowls and trade stories. Owner Klemens Grassl often explains the reasoning behind each preparation while Julia Schnabl manages the front of house. This straightforward layout supports a modern Austrian bistro that values transparency over pretense.
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Fish and meat are only served at Kabuff when they can be sourced through personal contacts; vegetables and herbs come from their own garden. The excellent sourdough bread is baked fresh daily and offered at a transparently stated price as part of a bread and water flat rate. An oak leaf lettuce salad is composed into a magnificent ensemble with apricot, chili, lemon balm, and a sophisticated marinade. Kohlrabi is cut into linguine strips and skillfully arranged with herbs and salted lemon. "Spring greens & weeds" are nestled on a wonderful Szegedin sauce; green beans and snake beans are combined with coriander seeds and tarragon to create an invigorating composition. As a main course, we are served buttery-tender venison loin from the Robata grill – supplied by a hunting friend. A carelessly arranged cookie ice cream sandwich comes straight from the freezer and is therefore unfortunately rather tasteless. All the better for this: Crêpe Suzette with sweet-and-sour sauce and fresh gooseberries from their own garden. Address: Lendkai 13, 8020 Graz, Austria Contact: 0316 232075 bistro@kabuff.at https://www.kabuff.at/ Opening Hours: Wed–Fri 16:00–22:00, Sat and Sun 9:00–13:00 and 16:00–22:00 Team: Eva Schnabl Chef: Klemens Grassl & Julia Schnabl Maître d'
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