The story
Kehlberghof occupies a quiet spot on the southwestern edge of Graz, delivering a refined Austrian cuisine from its distinctive green structure. Hermann Ortner and Sarah Klug steer this kitchen toward precise, ingredient-driven plates that have drawn steady critical attention. Guests moving through the dining area notice a calm environment where service focuses on timing rather than spectacle. The open layout keeps sightlines clear, allowing conversations to flow without interruption from passing staff.
The menu builds around carefully sourced meats and garden vegetables. A mild biosheep cheese mousse appears alongside fresh radishes dressed in an herb vinaigrette, offering a bright opening course. Main plates often feature Steirian veal fillet prepared with restrained seasoning to highlight the meat itself. Venison loin arrives paired with charred kale, showcasing how the cooks balance rich flavors with crisp textures in their daily regional cooking.
Dessert service shifts toward comfort-driven compositions rather than elaborate constructions. A chocolate coconut tart arrives slightly warm, while a traditional plum cake parfait provides a familiar finish to the meal. These plate arrangements have helped secure a fourteen point rating from Gault&Millau for 2026. The dining room operates under the guidance of Florian Winter and Michael Winkler, whose service pace matches the measured rhythm of the kitchen.
Recognition
Details
History
The green-painted house on the southwestern edge of Graz houses one of the city's best kitchens. Prices are sometimes at the upper limit, yet finely crafted dishes full of harmony and flavor diversity delight, such as a mild organic sheep cheese mousse with radishes in a delicious herb vinaigrette. Given the high quality of the Styrian veal fillet or the intense venison loin with crispy kale, one should not skip the meat here. The desserts—a chocolate-coconut tart in the form of a lukewarm cake and the modest dried-fruit parfait—cannot truly keep up with what was offered beforehand. And instead of the plated cheese quintet, we would have preferred a cheese trolley with a corresponding selection. Address Kehlbergstraße 83 8054 Graz/Straßgang Austria Contact 0316 28 41 25 restaurant@kehlberghof.at https://www.kehlberghof.at/ Opening Hours Tue–Sat 11:30–14:00 and 18:00–21:00 Fei, variable Team Hermann Ortner & Sarah Klug Chef Florian Winter & Michael Winkler Maître d'
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