The story
Perched on the Schlossberg, Starcke Haus in Graz offers a refined approach to regional Austrian cuisine that earns its standing through quiet precision rather than spectacle. Chef and owner Milivoj Novak guides every plate back to his own vegetable plots and local producers, treating the kitchen as a direct extension of the surrounding landscape. This commitment to seasonal cooking landed the restaurant a strong 14.5 rating from Gault&Millau for 2026, a score that reflects how consistently the menu respects ingredient integrity. Novak shares his professional background openly during service, turning each seated guest into part of a deliberate conversation about food and craft.
Evening guests typically follow the Genussreise tasting menu, a flexible progression that shifts with whatever arrives fresh from the region. The kitchen builds trust by adjusting portions and pairings to match the day’s harvest, which suits the relaxed yet exacting pace of service. Fish preparations consistently draw attention, with the team applying Mediterranean techniques that complement local catch without overwhelming delicate textures. Richer plates like Fuži pasta appear alongside optional upgrades in black truffle, Wagyu beef, or gold selection caviar.
The building itself carries centuries of quiet history, originally serving as a vintner’s cottage before poet Gustav Starcke penned verses across its walls in the early twentieth century. Novak restored the structure while preserving original details like the Minerva fresco, creating a setting where stone walls meet expansive roof views toward South Styria. Daytime visitors gather on the outdoor terrace for Italian coffee and hand drawn apple strudel, while evening tables settle into a more intimate rhythm. Classic wines anchor the program, chosen specifically to complement the straightforward elegance of Austrian cuisine without competing for attention.
Recognition
Ambience
Location