The story
Zur goldenen Birn in Graz presents a contemporary Austrian cooking style built on archival research and precise plating. Executive chef Jan Eggers and sous chef Manuel Ulrich consult old Habsburg recipe books to reconstruct forgotten dishes from the former imperial and royal territories. Their eight course evening menu translates those historical notes into modern technique. Gault&Millau acknowledged this balance of heritage and refinement by awarding the kitchen 17.5 points, specifically highlighting how the team strips away heaviness while preserving deep flavor foundations.
The Austrian kitchen anchors its offerings with ingredients like Carabinero paired with goose liver terrine and Amalfi lemon. A recurring favorite, the Kartoffelkönig, arrives molded from potato dough to hide a liquid yolk center, served alongside porcini mushrooms and Parmesan truffle foam. Roasted meats follow a slower rhythm, with beef short ribs braised for hours until they yield completely, finished with artichokes and herbs washed in coffee. Sweet finales continue the experimental tone, offering Maultaschen filled with Tahiti vanilla and a chocolate piñata cracked open tableside with a small wooden hammer.
Service unfolds inside the Parkhotel Graz, where the space prioritizes quiet concentration over ornate decoration. Patrons choose between a six or eight course progression, both beginning with beer sourdough bread and salted French farmer butter. The Austrian cuisine here favors structured pacing over theatrical presentation, adjusting pescatarian and vegetarian options when guests request them 48 hours in advance. Reservations operate on a strict schedule from Thursday through Saturday, allowing the team to dedicate full attention to each seating without rushing the pacing.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
Caviar doesn't always have to be the choice. Loosely inspired by Johannes Mario Simmel's novel, we opted for the suggested menu during our visit this year at Zur Goldenen Birn, skipping the albino sturgeon caviar offered by the service. The culinary journey thus began – after Carinthian Reindling and pumpkin seed oil – with a pear-shaped potato, inside which a liquid yolk awaited. This dish, dubbed the "Potato King," was complemented by a parmesan truffle foam – formidable. Carabinero prawns with wood sorrel, artfully arranged, accompanied by a small goose liver terrine – one would gladly enjoy the next appetizer again next weekend. The wine pairing left nothing to be desired, so a glass of champagne accompanied the "Blanc Manger" – a perfectly cooked turbot. Butter-tender short ribs, braised for several hours, served with artichokes and herbs coated in coffee, demonstrated that the kitchen also handles meat preparation with mastery. And the desserts? Here, the creativity of the team was finally revealed: A chocolate replica oyster with elderflower dashi, along with Maultaschen filled with Tahitian vanilla and wheatgrass, showcased a love for extraordinary flavor combinations that truly impress. And when you finally crack open the spice piñata shaped like a pear with a small wooden hammer and snack on the hidden chocolate temptations within, you've arrived in a culinary paradise. Address: Leonhardstraße 8, 8010 Graz, Austria Contact: 0316 363033, zurgoldenenbirn@parkhotel-graz.at, https://www.zurgoldenenbirn.at/ Opening Hours: Thu–Sat 18:00–20:00 Team: Jan Eggers, Head Chef; Manuel Ulrich, Sous Chef
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