The story
Waldschänke in Grieskirchen serves refined Austrian cuisine, rooted in an eighty-year family tradition. Elisabeth Grabmer and her son Clemens now run the kitchen, sourcing ingredients directly from the nearby forest, rivers, and meadows. Their approach balances historic wirtshaus staples with quiet modern adjustments. This dedication to honest regional cooking secured a 16.5 rating from Gault&Millau, which noted how seamlessly the plates complement the venue’s curated wine selection.
The menu follows what the local landscape provides, yet several preparations demonstrate consistent technical control. A dense mushroom terrine incorporates port wine and closes with pear, hazelnut, and cashew. Braised celeriac pairs with dark bread and walnuts, while pan-seared zander rests on red lentils and green beans. Slow-cooked pork knuckle features chicory and raisin jus to balance richer portions. Sweet finishes mirror this grounded style, featuring a light brioche with pickled plums and orange ice.
Outdoor seating occupies a meadow terrace framed by mature trees that block direct sun and release herbal notes in summer. Patron Heinz Grabmer oversees the beverage program from a cellar containing nearly eight hundred labels, spanning established Austrian estates to young international growers. He also designs alcohol-free journeys using house-made juices and regional fruit concentrates. Every detail reinforces a relaxed pace suited to the countryside setting.
Recognition
Ambience
Location