The story
Manuel Ressi runs the kitchen at Bärenwirt in Hermagor, defining a distinct Carinthian cuisine alongside partner Claudia Ressi. He grounds the menu in ingredients sourced from local producers who share a commitment to honest craftsmanship. This approach shapes the seasonal "Bärenwanderung" tasting, where dishes serve as focused studies of individual components rather than heavy preparations. The result is a style of Austrian cooking that emphasizes product clarity and refined presentation.
The tasting menu traverses themes like "Fischerei" and "Weide," highlighting preparations such as Lachsforelle with homemade kombucha and ox-heart carrot, or grazing pork paired with Gailtaler speck. A lamb course transforms both meat and offal into a galantine, while the spring asparagus dish features sauce Choron and an éclair to balance richness with freshness. Diners choosing the wirtshaus classics can order backhendl or carinthian kasnudel enriched with parasol butter. Sweet endings present marillenknödel accompanied by sea buckthorn and poppy miso.
The restaurant occupies a historic structure on the main square of Hermagor, ranking among the most traditional houses in the Gailtal valley. Manuel and Claudia Ressi offer guests a welcoming environment that blends heritage with modern service, including overnight accommodations in the nearby rooms called Kleiner Bär. The dining room reflects a calm, organized kitchen team working toward consistent quality. This grounded atmosphere supports the culinary standards recognized by the 17-point rating from Gault&Millau.
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Long live culinary poetry! At Manuel Ressi's, the menu is titled Bear's Migration, and the individual courses carry names such as Fishery, Pumpkin Field, Chicken Farm, Young Forest, Waterfall, or Dried Plum Orchard, varying with the seasons. Behind them lie lovingly composed, ingredient-heavy dishes—colloquially known as miniature masterpieces—combined into four- to eight-course sequences. Dishes like salmon trout with house-made kombucha, oxheart carrot, (local) physalis, and peanuts highlight Ressi’s talent, his ingredient-driven philosophy, and his technical mastery. The plating exudes refined simplicity, the flavors are perfectly calibrated, and every bite is delicious. Classicism also makes frequent appearances. Take the lamb course, where both the meat and offal are crafted into a sort of galantine. It is a culinary masterpiece. Then there is the asparagus dish. Absolutely stunning. Rich and opulent on one side, elegant and refreshing on the other. A brilliant balancing act. Accompanied by Choron sauce and an éclair. Manuel Ressi is currently cooking at the peak of his powers, and his dishes are thoroughly convincing. Not only in his fine-dining menus, incidentally. What is served in the traditional tavern is equally outstanding. Address: Hauptstraße 17, 9620 Hermagor, Austria. Contact: 04282 20 52, hallo@baerenwirt-hermagor.at, https://www.baerenwirt-hermagor.at/. Opening hours: Thu–Mon 12:00–14:00 and 18:00–20:00. Team: Manuel Ressi, Chef.
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