The story
Genusswirtschaft in Hollabrunn delivers a focused approach to modern Austrian cuisine, guided by chef Christoph Schüller. The team builds each service around a flexible carte blanche format spanning five to nine courses. This structure allows the kitchen to pivot quickly based on what arrives from nearby farms. Pastry specialist Hannes Langer aligns his confections with these shifting daily selections. The overall approach keeps the kitchen tightly connected to the actual harvest calendar.
Spring menus frequently open with a bear garlic cream soup accompanied by a delicate leek tartelette. The fish course showcases precise heat management, tossing monkfish spaghetti in a vibrant tomato base before adding briny capers. Asparagus season introduces Marchfelder spears dressed with smooth hollandaise and a trio of cured meats. A slow roasted lamb shank reaches a soft pink center, resting on creamy polenta alongside glazed carrots and a dense morel reduction.
Verena and Christoph Schüller run the operation as a family project, establishing a calm atmosphere from the moment guests cross the threshold. The initial bread service breaks from tradition by offering house prepared spreads that preview the meal’s flavor profile. Straightforward furniture arrangements and clean lines remove visual clutter so attention stays on the table. The evening concludes with lighter confections like an incense ice cream balanced with dates and orange, followed by a crisp Uhudler sorbet that ties back to regional Austrian culinary traditions.
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Die Genusswirtschaft does more than justice to its name. A warm welcome is followed by a somewhat different bread and spread service. As a spring-like play of colors with sophisticated flavor, a fine bear leek cream soup with a leek tartlet arrives at the table. How wonderfully spaghetti with monkfish, capers, and tomato sauce can be presented is demonstrated by Christoph Schüller with the following dish. True to the season, the Marchfeld asparagus with delicious hollandaise and a trio of exquisite hams also impresses. Cooked medium-rare – as promised – the lamb shank indulges with white polenta, carrots, and morel sauce. The frankincense ice cream with dates and orange becomes an extraordinary temptation, while the Uhudler sorbet serves as a refreshing and delightful conclusion. The "carte blanche" tasting menu of five to nine courses turns into a pleasurable experience, and with the wine pairing, into a true delight for the palate. Address: Mailberg 252, 2024 Mailberg, Austria Contact: 02943 300 56 | reservierung@genusswirtschaft-mailberg.at | https://www.genusswirtschaft-mailberg.at/ Opening Hours: Mon, Tue, Fri 17:30–20:30, Sat and Sun 11:30–13:30 and 17:30–20:30 Team: Christoph Schüller (Chef), Hannes Langer (Pastry Chef)
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