The story
der daberer. das biohotel in Kötschach delivers a refined organic regional cuisine deeply tied to Carinthia’s Gailtal valley.
The property traces its lineage to a mountain spring bubbling directly behind the foundation. Thomas Daberer built a thermal spa on this site in 1928, which his great-grandchildren converted into Austria’s first certified organic guesthouse in 1978. Siblings Marianne and Christian now steer the operation alongside a large permanent staff. They embed daily life within the Slow Food framework, operating as founding members of the valley’s designated travel region while harvesting vegetables from an on-site permaculture garden.
Gault&Millau granted the organic kitchen four caps in its latest ranking, praising a straightforward yet inventive approach to regional ingredients. Chef Florian Bucar builds plates around hyper-local sourcing, occasionally introducing subtle international textures like nori flakes or ginger-infused rice. The dinner service rotates with the growing season, featuring milk-braised lamb accompanied by Swiss chard and beluga lentils. Guests also choose between trout prepared Müllerin style from their own fish pond or braised kohlrabi dressed with tarragon vinegar and cedar crumble.
Interiors prioritize material honesty over decorative excess. Rooms feature solid wooden frames built by nearby carpenters set against humidifying clay plaster. Each accommodation contains a constantly refilled tea station and a spacious desk positioned near a south-facing balcony. The property deliberately limits wireless internet access, steering visitors toward reading, hiking the alpine trails, or enjoying the complimentary salad and soup lunch service during the day.
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The “Daberer,” meaning “those with the bird.” Always been a bit offbeat, consistently far from the mainstream, and driven by an incredible passion for gastronomy and culinary arts. That we at Gault&Millau haven’t had the Daberer’s organic kitchen on our radar for so long is, at best, an oversight. Nostra culpa. At the Daberer, several principles are held in high regard—principles that are of great importance for the future of gastronomy. Foremost among them are organic farming and the Slow Food philosophy. Florian Bucar impresses with a clear, creative cuisine. For the entrée, green asparagus is served with pickled melon, sesame mayonnaise, and a nori topping, accompanied by ginger and sushi rice. It’s a flirtation with Asian exoticism, yet firmly rooted in local produce. The lamb, served before the main course but also suitable as one, is braised in milk and presented with chard and beluga lentils. For the main course itself—you can choose between trout à la meunière from their own pond or braised kohlrabi with tarragon vinegar and cedar crumble—it’s almost impossible to make a “proper” decision. The fish is perfect, while the kohlrabi offers a calming, almost comforting soul food course. The carefully curated wine list featuring organic winemakers and the non-alcoholic cocktails, for which the sommelier happily takes his time, fit perfectly with the concept. Yes, they have a bird there. But it now sports four crests. Address: St. Daniel 32, 9635 Dellach/Gailtal, Austria Contact: 04718 590 | info@biohotel-daberer.at | https://www.biohotel-daberer.at/ Opening hours: Daily 18:30–20:00 Team: Florian Bucar – Head Chef | Stefanie Sonnleitner – Sous Chef
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