The story
Esslokal in Krems an der Donau delivers a quietly inventive approach to contemporary Austrian cuisine. Chef Roland Huber treats modern Austrian cooking as a discipline of restraint, favoring precise seasoning over heavy theatrical presentation. Critics at Gault&Millau have noted how the kitchen balances creativity with reasonable pricing while integrating fermented bases like Kōji and herbaceous accents such as Shiso. Guests move through a fixed six-course structure where each stage presents two distinct options, encouraging tables to share every preparation.
A braised eggplant arrives immersed in a deeply savory mushroom broth, finished with crisp guanciale and a granular topping reviewers describe as caviar of the field. Another centerpiece features deep sea red shrimp dressed with citrus pepper paste alongside small dumplings packed with crustacean meat. These plates demand sharing, turning individual orders into a collaborative tasting experience. The kitchen builds its reputation on this shared model, proving that restrained portioning often highlights ingredient quality more effectively than oversized servings.
Barbara Huber oversees guest service and arranges the dining space with a focus on practical comfort and steady visual warmth. She curates a substantial wine list that recently received industry praise as one of the most coherent medium-sized collections in Austria. Her personal pairing sessions guide diners through regional and international bottles that align with each course without interrupting conversation. This measured hospitality keeps the atmosphere grounded, allowing the food and drink to remain the clear focal point.
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Co-owner Babsi Huber not only offers guests a warm welcome, but also crafts a truly cozy atmosphere through her interior design expertise – decoration tips available upon request. Roland Huber commands the kitchen with ease, sending out one exquisite course after another. Creative without compromise. Bold yet flawlessly balanced. The braised eggplant in an umami-rich mushroom broth with “field caviar” and guanciale is particularly outstanding. You will also find yourself reluctant to share the magnificent red shrimp dish with yuzu-kosho and a crustacean-stuffed gyoza with your table neighbor. But you simply must, if you don’t want to miss out: The menu consists of six courses, each offering two options. So order everything between the two of you. Huber’s passion for Japanese ingredients is undeniable and has been a hallmark of his cooking long before the current Japanese food trend. Perhaps this is precisely why he incorporates Koji, shiso, and other Japanese elements so masterfully. The wine list is extensive, and Babsi Huber’s wine pairing service is even more impressive! Address Hauptplatz 16 3493 Hadersdorf am Kamp Austria Contact 0664 88747020 office@esslokal.com https://www.esslokal.com/ Opening Hours Tue–Thu 18:00–20:30, Fri & Sat 12:00–13:30 and 18:00–20:30 Team Roland Huber Chef Barbara Huber Maitre d'
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