The story
Landhaus Bacher in Krems an der Donau anchors a legacy of classical Austrian cooking that began in 1979 under the guidance of Susanne Dorfer-Bacher and Thomas Dorfer. The kitchen honors a lineage established decades ago by Lisl Wagner-Bacher, whose reputation extends well beyond Austrian borders. Thomas Dorfer approaches his work with deep respect for foundational methods. He frequently incorporates time-honored preparations like Beurre Blanc and Sauce de Civet into his modern service without letting tradition overwhelm the plate.
The daily rhythm of the kitchen revolves around careful preparation and seasonal preservation. Lisl Wagner-Bacher spends summers crafting apricot marmalade and autumn months bottling plum spreads. Throughout the year she maintains essential stocks and reduction bases that anchor the main menu. These concentrated foundations allow the dining team to build layered flavors while respecting the natural progression of local harvests.
This disciplined approach to Austrian cuisine has earned sustained acclaim across major culinary guides. The establishment holds two Michelin stars and recently received four Radishes from the We're Smart Green Guide for its sustainable practices. Critics have consistently awarded perfect scores from Falstaff and high marks from Gault Millau, where the head chef previously won national titles in 1983 and 2009. Such accolades reflect a kitchen that prioritizes precision and seasonal integrity over fleeting trends.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
Lower Austria is just as hard to imagine without the Landhaus Bacher – culinarily speaking – as Vienna is without St. Stephen’s Cathedral. For decades, the estate has been a gem and sanctuary for connoisseurs right in the heart of the Wachau. It captivates with its timeless charm, which is continually refreshed through subtle updates that keep it current without ever losing its identity. The same holds true for Thomas Dorfer’s cuisine. It is a masterful achievement to consistently offer four distinct menus that can also be mixed and matched table by table, all delivered to guests in impressive quality. You immediately sense these ambitions in the initial greetings: they are playful and crafted with meticulous attention to detail. And they provide everything needed for a perfect start. Once the menu begins, one highlight follows another. Take the yellow soup, for instance. Though it sounds unassuming, it is precisely the opposite. It is a composition of acidity, sweetness, umami, and body, yet remains light and easily digestible. Definitely a flavor that lingers! Another standout is the pike with Leipziger Allerlei and rhubarb. The pike is served both as a fish dumpling and – very rarely – as a perfectly pan-seared fillet, accompanied by morels, asparagus, carrots, rhubarb, a crustacean jus, and a young garlic beurre blanc. If you didn’t know more dishes in this vein were coming, you’d want to shout out loud: please, more of this! Grilled on charcoal, the Savoy cabbage with smoked eel plays in the same league. In fact, this course has all the makings of a signature dish. But so do the remaining main courses and desserts. The service is attentive, friendly, and professional, and the wine list ranks among the best in the country. You rarely find such vintage depth in Austrian and French wines. One small insider tip for all wine lovers: try the rare wine pairing – it’s well worth it! We are also convinced that Thomas Dorfer and his team will find a few suitable bottles in the Landhaus cellar to toast to the fifth hat. We certainly extend our heartfelt congratulations! Address: Südtirolerplatz 2, 3512 Mautern, Austria Contact: 02732 82 93 7 | info@landhaus-bacher.at | https://www.landhaus-bacher.at/ Opening Hours: Wed 18:30–20:30, Thu–Sat 12:00–13:30 and 18:30–20:30, Sun 11:30–19:00 Team: Thomas Dorfer, Chef · Chef of the Year 2009 Manuel Hammerl, Sous-Chef Johanna Stiefelbauer, Maître d' Noemi Krondorfer, Pastry Chef
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