The story
Greisslerei beim Taubenkobel anchors itself in Schützen am Gebirge, where Alain Weissgerber builds Pannonian cuisine around controlled flames. His career began in Alsace and expanded through winter stints with masters like Joël Robuchon and Élena Arzak. A 2010 blaze closed his first restaurant, leading Walter Eselböck to offer him a permanent station here. He shares command with Barbara Eselböck, who manages guest relations while he stays quietly behind the stove.
The kitchen reduces every recipe to essential textures and precise heat. Whole wild turbot from the Kvarner Bay receives only capers, citrus, and a thin layer of smoke from the wood-fired oven. Pikeperch from Lake Neusiedl appears alongside zucchini blossoms and dried porcinis. Glazed veal sweetbreads meet Marchfeld artichokes and acacia blossoms in a display of technical restraint.
Barbara Eselböck steers the dining room while honoring the estate’s agricultural origins. Visitors travel from Vienna and the neighboring lake to experience this steady Pannonian cooking. Recent Gault&Millau reviews awarded the venue scores of fifteen point five and eighteen point five, citing reliable craftsmanship. The kitchen keeps its French roots while local harvests anchor every Pannonian dish.
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The existence of the branch isn't immediately obvious. The menu is concise, offers classics, and doesn't vary much over the years either. Why should it? The antipasti are excellent, as are the tagliatelle with fresh morels. The asparagus salad and the "Pannonian cabbage soup," a classic at the Greisslerei, could have used a touch more pep, while another perennial favorite, the gnocchi with truffle, is thoroughly enjoyable. The sea bass is expertly crafted and delicious. The wine selection features primarily family-linked wines from Gut Oggau. The display case offers several desserts; we like the orange tartlet best, along with the pistachio éclair. Good coffee. Address Hauptstraße 29/33, 29, 7081 Schützen am Gebirge, Austria Contact Family Eselböck-Weissgerber 02684 22 97 restaurant@taubenkobel.at https://www.taubenkobel.at/ Opening hours Wed–Fri 12–14 and 18–20, Sat and Sun 12–20; variable Team Alain Weissgerber Chef, Barbara Eselböck Maître d'
Let’s take a different approach for once: start with the final pages of the Taubenkobel menu. There you will find – à la carte – dishes prepared in the wood-fired oven and over an open fire. Take, for instance, a whole wild-caught turbot. To be thorough, it should be noted that capers, glazed pork tenderloin, and citrus fruits also make an appearance. Yet the undisputed star is the turbot, and nothing else. Weissgerber’s turbot typically originates from the Kvarner Bay. A flame, a hint of smoke, and an exceptional product. That is truly all that is required. Provided you know how to execute it properly. And Alain Weissgerber knows exactly how. Highlights from the current menu: pikeperch from nearby Lake Neusiedl (cooking precision: simply world-class) served with porcini mushrooms and zucchini blossom, and – once again from the à la carte selection – glazed veal sweetbreads with Marchfeld artichokes, porcini mushrooms, and acacia blossoms. Weissgerber’s cuisine is equally rooted in French tradition and regional produce, underpinned by impeccable technical craftsmanship. Viewing the Taubenkobel as a complete culinary and gastronomic achievement leads inevitably to one conclusion: unique. Address: Hauptstraße 33, 2870 Schützen am Gebirge, Austria Contact: 02684 22 97 restaurant@taubenkobel.at https://www.taubenkobel.at/ Opening Hours: Wednesday 18:00–22:00, Thursday–Sunday 12:00–14:00 and 18:00–20:00 Team: Alain Weissgerber, Chef · Chef of the Year 2024 | Barbara Eselböck, Maître d’
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