The story
At the Goldader in Tamsweg, chef Edgar Erlacher treats alpine culinary as a practice of careful observation rather than invention. His restrained approach recently secured a fourteen-point Gault&Millau rating, reflecting a kitchen that prioritizes direct farm deliveries over imported trends. Every plate begins with Lungau produce, while occasional staples like carp travel just over the border from Kärnten. Handmade tagliatelle and locally milled Tauern rye bread anchor the menu, proving that restraint often yields more flavor than complexity.
Appetizers arrive with quiet precision, starting with raw deer tartare layered alongside onion foam. A confit carp from Carinthia rests on lentils and chard, followed by spring asparagus paired with fresh fir tips. The main course highlights young beef steak cooked to order, served with Eachtling potatoes that remain central to Lungau cuisine. Dessert closes the sequence using redcurrant, aged whiskey, and roasted Taurern rye for a bright, earthy finish.
The dining room balances cool stone, warm timber, and deliberate lighting to guide guests through a three-act evening. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the Tamsweg mountain range, turning every table into a vantage point for the surrounding peaks. During summer months, the rooftop terrace shifts to live wood-fire grilling under an open sky. The service team moves with practiced rhythm, pairing house-selected wines with each course while preserving the unhurried pace expected from refined Austrian alpine cooking.
Recognition
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The interior of this restaurant could be anywhere in the world, but the menu is distinctly Lungau: here, almost everything is prepared using ingredients from local farmers. What isn't available locally comes from Carinthia – such as the confited carp with lentils, chard, and dill. This is preceded by a game tartare with onion and espuma. The homemade tagliatelle are perfect, and the accompanying asparagus with spruce is wonderfully harmonious. The young beef steak is cooked to perfection, served with Eachtling – you simply cannot do without these potatoes in the Lungau! The dessert featuring redcurrants, whisky, and Tauern rye offers a refreshing finish. The service team is highly charming and attentive, operating as a thoroughly well-coordinated unit. There is a wider selection of wines by the glass than what appears on the menu – just ask. Address: Gewerbepark Litzelsdorf 281, 5580 Tamsweg, Austria Contact: 06474 8191777 | reservierung@goldader.at | https://www.goldader.at/ Opening hours: Tue–Sat 17:30–21:30 Chef: Edgar Erlacher
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