The story
Clementine im Glashaus in Vienna serves modern Austrian cuisine with an international twist. Under chef Fabian Philler, the Austrian kitchen builds its menu around fresh ingredients and straightforward compositions. The Gault&Millau guide recently acknowledged this consistent direction with a solid rating for 2026. Diners begin the meal with Joseph bread brushed with lavender butter and scattered with coarse chives.
Vegetable preparations lean toward crisp textures instead of heavy reductions. A fennel salad appears alongside roasted artichokes and lightly fried sweet potato strips. The trout course rests on smooth mashed potatoes, though reviewers occasionally note the fish arrives slightly cooled. Dessert provides a steadier finish, particularly when the team crafts a nougat and rhubarb pairing that offsets rich cream with sharp fruit notes.
The dining room occupies a sheltered courtyard that muffles street traffic entirely. Natural daylight filters through the glass ceiling while mature branches cast shade across the wooden tables. Guests often order from the extensive wine list to accompany these meals. This quiet microclimate keeps the space feeling detached from the surrounding city blocks.
Recognition
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The Clementine in the Glass House in Vienna offers a cool, shady garden that feels like a little oasis in the middle of the city. The ambiance is beautiful and invites you to linger. The service is friendly, but the wait time between the salad and the main course becomes a small test of patience. The table setting with Joseph bread and lavender butter with very coarsely chopped chives is an interesting start – a bit wild, but somehow charming. The fennel salad with artichokes and fried sweet potato strips is unremarkable. The Arctic char on mashed potatoes tastes excellent, although the fish only arrives lukewarm. The nougat-rhubarb dessert turns out to be a true highlight. The wine list leaves nothing to be desired. Address: Coburgbastei 4, 1010 Vienna, Austria Contact: 01 518 18 130 reservierung@palais-coburg.com https://www.palais-coburg.com/ Opening Hours: Mon–Sat 8–22:30 Team: Fabian Philler, Chef; Johannes Eibensteiner, Maître d'
There are kitchens that are good – and then there are those that completely throw you off course. At Silvio Nickol's in the Palais Coburg, they don't just cook; here, flavor explosions are planned like heists: precise, nerve-wracking, with the vague premonition that something unexpected could turn the corner at any moment. The opening act: Mackerel in leche de tigre with salt marsh herbs and fennel – salty coastal wind meets citrus uppercut. Duck liver follows, creamy yet light-footed thanks to mango, malt, and a touch of vadouvan, a French-inspired curry blend. Like a silk scarf with an exotic pattern that you casually drape over your shoulder. Zander with seaweed, shiitake, and pearl onion then brings quiet depth for reflection. Then it gets louder: langoustine with garlic, salted lemon, and spinach, a course you'd gladly order again. The Burgaud duck with chanterelles, artichoke, and lime arrives with the calmness of an old master: juicy, serious, and with a sour smile. The Inglewhite Buffalo Cheddar is the interlude: pistachio, medlar, lemon balm – bitter, sweet, fresh. Then the dessert duo: cucumber, coconut, miso, and coriander. Fromage blanc with strawberry, licorice, and treetop brings the forest and childhood to one spoonful. By the end, you're full – not just in the stomach, but also in the head. This kitchen feeds ideas, not just hunger. The wine pairing doesn't play in the background, but like a perfectly timed sidekick. Silvio Nickol doesn't just cook; he stages adventures. Those who sit here dive away for a few hours – and return with the feeling of having been part of one of those stories you'll talk about for a long time. Address: Coburgbastei 4, 1010 Vienna, Austria Contact: 01 51 81 81 30 reservierung@palais-coburg.com https://www.palais-coburg.com/ Opening Hours: Tue–Sat 6:30 PM–11:00 PM reservierung@palais-coburg.com Team Silvio Nickol Chef · Chef of the Year 2014
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