Gault&Millau — 19
Let's put it this way: Konstantin Filippou didn't make it easy for us this year. In his kitchen (more precisely, with his dishes), we consistently experienced a high degree of precision and accuracy regarding flavor composition and balance. Filippou’s plates are always a feast for the eyes. Avant-garde – and so was the atmosphere in the restaurant. Then came – a few weeks early – the Ides of March. Accusations were made, partly concerning the treatment of staff, partly regarding the origin of certain ingredients. The waters ran high. So high that we cannot pretend they weren’t there. After all, we and our testers were also criticized for failing to recognize the incorrect labeling. Therefore, we tested Filippou not twice this year, as is customary for highly rated restaurants, but four times: once before and three times after February. Our impression: Konstantin Filippou and his team have come through the crisis in top form. Filippou repeatedly features classics. One of his first courses on the menu, the Bouchot mussel, he pairs with rice congee and gribiche sauce, a spicy-sour classic of French cuisine. For the “sea trout” course, he introduces plum and black garlic, achieving an astonishing sensory arc. The sea trout itself is aged and sourced from Ikejima and dry-aged Zampano specialist Andreas Jobst. For the large evening menu, Filippou has further refined the aged sea trout and created a complex dish with tomatoes, eel, and Albufera sauce. It is one of the two main courses available. The other is venison loin with seafood toffee and grapevine shoots. Also excellent. But you should go for the fish. On our last visit, the team was just working on a new (and promising) cheese course. The sweet desserts have remained unchanged for some time now. Rightly so, as both the apricot (with saffron and hazelnut) and the “Rose” (with coconut and strawberry) are signature dishes of the Filippou patisserie. Service and wine pairing were never an issue anyway and remain as good as ever. In addition to its impressive wine cellar, the restaurant also offers a full champagne pairing. The selection is unique, guaranteeing an unforgettable experience. In short: What was alleged against Filippou naturally concerned us, and we find much of it unacceptable. However, our rating always focuses on performance – and that is flawless.
Address Dominikanerbastei 17 1010 Vienna Austria Contact 01 512 22 29 reservation@konstantinfilippou.com https://www.konstantinfilippou.com/ Opening Hours Lunch Mon and Thu–Sat 12:00–14:00, Dinner Mon and Thu–Sat 18:00–22:00 Team Konstantin Filippou Chef · Chef of the Year 2016 Dennis Buchberger Sous Chef