The story
Labstelle in Vienna grounds its seasonal Austrian cuisine in what local growers actually harvest each week. Founders Gerald and Thomas opened the door in 2013, establishing a workspace where the calendar dictates the plate instead of fixed tradition. Chef Matthias Hausburg runs the heat alongside sous chef Theo Gkountis, favoring in-house techniques like cold smoking, brining, and baking over imported shortcuts. This hands-on approach keeps their regional Austrian cooking anchored in verifiable quality.
The Gault&Millau judges highlighted how carefully this Austrian kitchen balances texture across every course. A chilled arrangement of pickled trout paired with smoked eel and Jerusalem artichoke opens the meal, followed by a dense carrot soup finished with fresh chervil. Diners typically pause at the cheese trolley for aged Jumi varieties before closing with a structured dark chocolate dessert. The wine program supports these flavors with precise selections chosen by the floor staff.
Located three minutes from Stephansplatz behind a courtyard entrance, the dining room functions as both restaurant and bar. Katharina Proyer and Zeljko Skrbo coordinate the floor, matching the service rhythm to the relaxed pace set by the stove. An accessible passage welcomes wheelchairs and strollers directly into the main hall, while the separate event space hosts private dinners when the kitchen closes early. Regular guests return because the staff tracks preferences rather than table numbers.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
At Labstelle, the approach continues to be defined by care, regional focus, and a refined sense of texture and flavor. The evening begins with a beautifully balanced plate of cured char and smoked eel with Jerusalem artichoke. The carrot soup with chervil is powerful and dense, yet delicately nuanced. A true highlight is the braised organic veal breast accompanied by a wonderfully light quark dumpling. Instead of the dessert course, we first choose the superbly aged Jumi cheeses, followed by a bold sweet finale featuring a dark chocolate dessert. The wine pairing stands out for its character and precision. The service is courteous and highly knowledgeable. The cohesive atmosphere, the dedicated kitchen and service staff, and the exceptional quality of both ingredients and preparation warrant a gentle upgrade. Address: Lugeck 6, 1010 Vienna, Austria Contact: 01 236 21 22 | office@labstelle.at | https://www.labstelle.at/ Opening Hours: Mon–Fri 12:00–14:30 and 18:00–22:00, Sat 10:00–14:00 and 18:00–22:00 Fei Team Matthias Hausburg, Chef
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