The story
Bernhard Zimmerl runs the line with a clear focus on seasonal produce and structured flavor pairings. His Thursday-to-Monday menu opens with a concentrated beef tea served alongside puffed choux pastry filled with wild garlic ricotta and blackcurrant. The progression moves deliberately toward lake fish like carp and sea bass, both prepared with sharp acidity and smoke to cut through richer textures. This approach earned the restaurant a fourteen point score from Gault Millau, which noted the culinary balance between ambitious plating and honest pricing.
The dining room encourages sharing through formats like the carp pizza, which layers pickled freshwater fish with smoked caviar and Dijon mustard mayo over a thin crust. Guests also order the dry aged rib eye steak served with potato dumplings and mushroom sauce, or the traditional tafelspitz accompanied by creamed spinach and apple horseradish. Smaller plates such as truffle arancini and marinated beef tartare with salted yolk provide lighter entry points before the main courses arrive. Every dish reflects a deliberate blend of modern Austrian cooking and Italian street food influences.
The space operates as both a relaxed pub and a focused restaurant, divided into areas that accommodate different pacing. Low lighting and wooden furnishings create a steady backdrop for conversation, while the bar area draws crowds for weekend brunch and late evening drinks. Staff move efficiently between the service counter and the dining floor, maintaining a casual rhythm without sacrificing table attention. Regular events like wine tastings and seasonal celebrations keep the calendar active throughout the year.
Recognition
Ambience
Location