The story
Altes Backhaus in Wiener Neustadt delivers refined Austrian cooking within preserved medieval stonework. Chef Bernhard Gruber approaches the kitchen with a focus on first-class basic ingredients and biological sourcing. He trained at the Alpenhotel Knappenhof and served as sous chef under Helmut Österreicher before opening this venue in September 2011. His culinary philosophy prioritizes subtle flavor balance and technical precision over theatrical presentation.
The menu features textural contrasts like crispy octopus alongside delicate salmon trout prepared with edible algae. A golden breaded pork cutlet arrives with robust rouille, while boiled Austrian wool pig cheek rests beside roasted peppers and smooth potato purée. Sommelier Franz Schmutzer anchors these selections with a rotating selection of regional wines that complement modern Austrian cuisine. Biweekly tasting events allow visiting producers to introduce new vintages directly to guests.
The dining space occupies a structure originally built in the fourteenth century and first documented in 1450. It functioned continuously as a commercial bakery until nineteen seventy-one and survived World War II bombardments that flattened most surrounding buildings. Petra Gruber manages front-of-house operations and pastry production, maintaining a relaxed family environment within the historic vaults. The Gault&Millau guide awarded fourteen points for this consistent execution and attentive service.
Recognition
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