Celebrated table
The story
The Wan & Only in Ghent operates as a refined Belgian brasserie under the direction of Lore Moerman and Robbe Kerkhove, who stepped into the building after closing their previous venture, Bodo. They kept the structure’s original bones intact while completely rethinking how the kitchen works. The result is a straightforward menu that respects local ingredients and traditional techniques without unnecessary complication. Every plate arrives with the quiet confidence of cooks who understand that simplicity requires precision.
The kitchen serves solid Belgian comfort food that relies on careful preparation rather than heavy sauces. Homemade bitterballen arrive packed with tender shredded beef alongside an escabeche featuring thinly sliced raw fennel and earthy shiitake mushrooms. Steak tartare arrives dressed with fresh chervil and proper fries, while slow braised beef cheek sits in a rich beer reduction until it yields easily to the fork. These plates reflect the straightforward approach that recently earned the venue a spot on the Le Fooding list.
Stepping inside reveals an ornate wooden bar that anchors the room and wood paneled ceilings that catch the ambient light. The layout still feels like a familiar meeting place where locals gather for reliable drinks and honest meals. This balance between preserved history and updated service gives the Belgian cooking here a grounded, welcoming atmosphere. It is a space that remembers its past while comfortably serving the present day crowd.
Recognition
Location
