Mr. Lam

The story

Mr. Lam in Rio de Janeiro: Beijing Chinese Cuisine with a View

For more than two decades, Mr. Lam has been a fixture of Rio de Janeiro’s dining scene, serving what it calls “the surprising cuisine of Beijing.” The restaurant, located in the Lagoa neighborhood, is a destination for those seeking a refined, consistent take on Asian fusion that has earned a Michelin Recommended nod.

The story begins long before Rio. Mr. Lam was born in China in 1946 and, by the age of 22, was running the kitchen of the celebrated Mr. Chow in London. In 1979, he opened Mr. Chow in New York, where he remained until 2005. The following year, he brought his name and his know-how to Brazil. Since opening, the house has been consistently full – a fact the restaurant notes requires no advertising.

The Space and the Setting

The restaurant occupies three floors, each with a distinct feel. The first floor houses the main dining room and bar, with a double-height ceiling and seating for up to 90 guests. The second floor offers private, modular spaces for business dinners or quieter gatherings. The third floor is a glass-roofed terrace with a view that is hard to beat: the Corcovado mountain and Christ the Redeemer on one side, the Rodrigo de Freitas lagoon on the other.

The design is subtle in its Chinese references, using traditional reds and yellows within contemporary furniture. The entire layout was overseen by a Feng Shui specialist. Even the kitchen was given special attention, with a powerful Chinese wok range and a duck oven imported from New York – the restaurant claims there is no similar oven in Brazil.

The Cooking

The menu has remained essentially the same for over 20 years, built around the principles of color, aroma, and flavor. Nothing is prepared in advance; every dish is made to order. The most requested items include the Peking Duck, lacquered whole in that special oven and served with pancakes, cucumber, and scallions. Another signature is the Sqwab & Gambie, a DIY wrap of chicken cubes, lettuce, and the restaurant’s dark sauce.

Other standouts include the King Thor Prawns, a Chinese tempura with two sauces, and the Crispy Beef, a shredded beef with carrot and a lightly spicy sweet-and-sour sauce. The drinks menu is equally ambitious, featuring cocktails like the house Mr. Lam (rum, Carpano, pisco, and cumaru syrup) and a Janis made with Hendrick’s gin, pomegranate, and lime.