The story
Resting in a basement space along Prague’s Grafická street, Graf 26 serves contemporary European cuisine across a compact dining environment that holds just twenty-six guests. This unassuming address earned a score of twelve from Gault&Millau, which praised the kitchen for delivering honest home cooking paired with attentive service. The interior stays deliberately low key, allowing the open kitchen to become the natural focal point for evening diners. Guests regularly note the staff's willingness to guide them through the rotating seasonal selections.
Chef Karel Caldr leads the culinary operation from behind the pass, drawing on years of training alongside established wine and food programs. His approach to modern European cooking centers on seasonal availability rather than rigid tradition, which explains why the weekly lunch service shifts alongside market deliveries. The team maintains a steady rhythm during weekday hours, preparing both standard à la carte plates and multi-course tasting journeys. Diners often watch the plating process directly from their tables before the plates leave the stainless steel counter.
The current menu highlights US Prime tartare dressed with Kantabrian anchovy and grated yolk alongside fresh pasta prepared all’amatriciana with aged pecorino di fossa. These dishes reflect a disciplined approach to European cooking, prioritizing texture and balanced seasoning over heavy sauces. Sommelier Milan Polanecký curates a focused wine selection to complement these rich preparations, while evening visitors typically finish with the pistachio panna cotta or a structured Valrhona chocolate variation.
Recognition
Ambience