The story
Jan Punčochář opened U Matěje in Prague to fulfill a long-standing goal of creating a space dedicated to traditional Czech cuisine and Austro-Hungarian cooking. As his first establishment built around this specific culinary tradition, the kitchen treats seasonal shifts as opportunities rather than obligations. Staples remain on the menu year round while the rest adjusts to local harvests. This steady approach lets the ingredients dictate the pace of service.
The spring version of goose liver pâté arrives with sliced leeks, rendered lard, and the sharp bite of wild garlic. Fried carp cuts through the delicate batter and rests beside dill mayonnaise and a crisp cabbage salad. A smoked bologna sausage pairs lightly seasoned meat with green and white asparagus alongside a reduced black chanterelle sauce. Dessert settles on cottage cheese buns coated in rum sauce and vanilla ice cream.
Two main dining areas sit beneath sloping ceilings and feature paneled walls that absorb sound. Wooden tables and chairs create a grounded feel that matches the relaxed inn atmosphere. Visitors can step outside to a courtyard where mature chestnut trees provide natural shade during summer months. The layout encourages conversation even when the room reaches capacity.
Pouring Moravian and Austrian wines alongside chilled Pilsner Urquell grounds the menu in regional drinking culture. Critics have noticed the consistent execution across both floors. The Gault&Millau guide awarded fourteen points for this steadfast commitment to Austro-Hungarian kitchen standards. A Michelin Bib Gourmand designation further confirms the value delivered at every table.
Recognition
Ambience
Location