The story
At ZEM Prague, Chef Libor Kristofčak transforms straightforward local produce into layered plates that bridge Czech cooking traditions and Japanese izakaya culture. His theatrical cooking station relies on visible flames and rising steam to char vegetables and sear proteins tableside. This hands-on approach keeps the focus squarely on ingredient quality rather than heavy sauces. The kitchen operates daily through lunch and dinner service, maintaining a steady rhythm across both concepts.
The menu reads like a series of carefully engineered pairings rather than a rigid list. Pork gyoza arrive with ginger, shitake mushrooms, and a sharp ponzu glaze that cuts through the richness, while a bryndza cheese doughnut balances grilled spring onions and smoked strawberries against walnuts and truffle honey. Critics have taken note of these combinations, with Gault & Millau awarding the venue two toques in 2026 for its precise preparation and thoughtful flavor architecture. Beef goulash follows a similar pattern, wrapping slow-cooked shank inside hand-formed dumplings alongside caraway mayonnaise.
The interior embraces an avant-garde Czech aesthetic, drawing directly from the visual language of 1920s Prague cafés. Heavy wooden tables sit beneath elegant glass chandeliers, creating a backdrop that feels familiar yet distinctly modern. An open kitchen allows guests to watch the charcoal fire shift between grilling stations and induction burners. Service moves deliberately through the floor, matching the measured pace of the cooking process.
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