The story
At Hospůdka U Štěpána near Sušice, Štěpán and Zdeňka Rudovi run a kitchen dedicated to straightforward Czech cooking grounded in their own farm practices. Their unconventional cattle breeding supplies the Charolais beef that anchors the permanent menu, providing steaks that travel directly from pasture to plate. This commitment to local sourcing shapes their approach to Czech dishes, where familiar ingredients receive careful attention rather than heavy revision. The Gault&Millau guide noted a particularly cohesive menu this year, praising how the Rudovs balance rustic foundations with imaginative plating.
Appetizers feature tender beef tongue served with celery, horseradish, and buckwheat popcorn to cut through the rich texture. Main courses highlight pressed pork belly accompanied by a sheep cheese sauce, sour cabbage, cracklings, and delicate Parmesan gnocchi. Each component carries precise seasoning, allowing the saltiness of the dairy to meet the sharp acidity of preserved vegetables. Warm cottage cheese cake finishes the meal alongside house ice cream and a rum emulsion that ties the flavors together without overpowering them.
The dining room sits comfortably among the quiet outskirts of the Bohemian Forest, offering a relaxed setting far from urban noise. Wooden furnishings and open windows frame views of the surrounding countryside, creating a space that feels both lived in and intentionally calm. Guests settle into simple tables while waiting for plates that favor honest Czech preparation over theatrical presentation. The overall impression remains one of steady craftsmanship, where every element supports the next without drawing unnecessary attention to itself.
Recognition
Ambience
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