The story
Noi occupies the dining room of Nobis Hotel, a luxury property housed in Copenhagen's former music conservatory just across from the Glyptoteket. The building carries real architectural weight, and the kitchen has recently undergone an equally significant shift. Where a French-leaning, grand-ambition tasting menu once held court under Bocuse d'Or silver medallist Jeppe Foldager, the cooking has been recalibrated into something quieter and more rooted: a Nordic kitchen that speaks in precise, seasonal terms.
An eight-course tasting menu provides the fullest picture, though individual dishes can be ordered separately. The approach is Nordic in both ingredient and temperament — restrained, considered, and occasionally brilliant. A tartare of pikeperch and prawns arrives beneath noodle-thin ribbons of glass cabbage and a dusting of tomato powder that adds gentle acidity and body. It is carefully constructed, if quietly spoken.
The kitchen's real confidence shows with fish. A cod tail, glazed in a concentrated chicken stock with lemon thyme, delivers remarkable depth — the meat yielding and butter-soft, the sauce tightly wound with savour. It is the kind of dish that earns a restaurant its reputation.
The wine list at Noi defies the usual expectations of a hotel restaurant. Alongside classic fine-wine references, the list reaches toward natural and unconventional producers — including a lightly skin-macerated white from Arianna Occhipinti in Sicily, fragrant with dried apricot, rose and yellow fruit candy. It is an unusual and genuinely exciting find in this context.
Dinner can begin in the hotel lounge, where skilled bartenders hold their own, and continue in the courtyard — a sheltered space that filters out the noise of H.C. Andersens Boulevard and proves more characterful than the large main dining room, which is still finding its footing. The White Guide has recognised Noi at its Fine level for 2026, noting the kitchen's promising direction and the standout quality of individual plates.
Recognition
Details
History
After the ambitious restaurant project Niels, led by Bocuse d'Or silver medalist Jeppe Foldager, fell through, there has been little news about the food at the luxury hotel Nobis, located in the former music conservatory directly across from the Glyptoteket. Now, things are stirring again, and Foldager’s French-inspired gourmet kitchen has been replaced by a simpler, Nordic-focused one. The culinary style can be explored through a single-course tasting menu, though dishes can also be ordered à la carte. Our starter is a seasonal Nordic offering: a tartare of pike perch and shrimp is topped with noodle-thin shavings of glass cabbage and tomato powder, adding a touch of heft and acidity. Well-conceived, even if the flavor presentation remains on the subtle side. The hot courses fare better, as the kitchen clearly knows how to cook fish properly. The cod dish features a small cod tail glazed in a rich chicken jus with lemon thyme, infusing the meat with ample moisture and depth so that it melts buttery-soft off the bone. Excellent. Paired with the cod, we are delighted by a lightly skin-macerated natural white from Arianna Occhipinti in Sicily, which beautifully evokes aromas of dried apricots, roses, and yellow gummy candies. Wine lists at hotel restaurants are rarely thrilling, but this one offers an intriguing mix of classic top-tier selections alongside unconventional natural wines like the one just mentioned. Dinner can begin in the lounge, where exceptionally skilled bartenders preside, and continue in the courtyard, which shields diners from the bustle of city life and the ever-roaring H.C. Andersen Boulevard. It’s actually more enjoyable to dine here than in the spacious main restaurant, which struggles somewhat with its personality and lack of guests filling the numerous tables—tables that are, of course, essential for accommodating hotel guests hungry for breakfast.
