The story
On 1 February 2019, Michelle Hemme and Jakob Spolum opened Restaurant HOS – the name a contraction of their surnames – on Kongensgade in central Odense. The two are anything but newcomers: Spolum previously served as head chef at Ruths Hotel, where Hemme worked as restaurant manager. That shared experience shows in every detail of how the place is run.
Step inside and you find exposed brick walls decorated with vintage Wiinblad plates, solid Danish furniture classics, and an open kitchen with a counter bar at its natural centre. The atmosphere is warm without being studied – good music, a staff that clearly enjoys its work, and a sense, as the White Guide put it when awarding HOS its Masters level recognition, of being "in good hands."
At lunch, the focus is modern smørrebrød – the team's own take on the classic Danish open sandwich, served on well-malted homemade rye bread. The White Guide's reviewers singled out a pickled and pan-fried mackerel fillet with lemon mayonnaise and sweet summer tomatoes, and a deeply satisfying tartelet packed with crisp-fried veal sweetbreads, pickled white asparagus, fried morels and a chicken cream sauce worth scraping from the plate. A mushroom toast layered with chanterelles, king oyster mushrooms, pickled black trumpets and a siphon-foamed mushroom sauce rounds out a lunch menu that also includes warm dishes, cheese and desserts.
In the evenings, Wednesday through Saturday, Spolum's kitchen shifts to a fixed menu of three to six courses with snacks and petit fours – modern and seasonal, with a Danish-French sensibility and a firm commitment to local produce and organic ingredients. Everything is made from scratch; salting and pickling happen at peak freshness so the kitchen can use ingredients when they are at their absolute best.
Michelle Hemme, owner and sommelier, has built a wine list with a declared fondness for Burgundy and classic European producers. The philosophy is straightforward: wines she loves, matched to Spolum's cooking, at prices that the White Guide described as "almost touching." On Friday and Saturday evenings, two wine pairings are offered – a regular menu featuring a new generation of winemakers with classic expression, and a prestige menu for those who want aged bottles and well-known labels. Homemade schnapps, seasonal house-pressed juice and local beer on tap complete the picture.
White Guide's Masters level award – among the highest distinctions in Nordic restaurant criticism – confirms what Odense diners have known since 2019: Hemme and Spolum have added something genuinely distinctive to the city's restaurant scene.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
Odense's restaurant scene is buzzing cheerfully these days, and one of the newest additions to the ranks is HOS, which opened earlier this year in the quieter stretch of Kongensgade. Behind it, however, stand seasoned professionals. Jakob Spolum is the former head chef at Ruths Hotel, where his wife, Michelle Hemme, also served as restaurant manager. She now runs the front of house in Odense, where her warm hospitality and boundless energy ensure a welcoming atmosphere at every table. While outdoor seating is available, it’s worth stepping inside the elegant restaurant, where the open kitchen and dining bar form the natural focal point. Exposed brick walls adorned with vintage Wiinblad plates, substantial Danish furniture classics to relax in, and a comforting sense of being in capable hands set the tone. The concept offers an updated take on smørrebrød for lunch, while weekends feature an evening menu with a modern, season-driven Danish-French flair, emphasizing local ingredients and organic produce. A pickled and pan-fried mackerel fillet served with lemon mayonnaise alongside lightly roasted and fresh sweet summer tomatoes on well-toasted homemade rye bread makes a strong first impression. Choosing from the many temptations on the smørrebrød menu is difficult, especially when complemented by a selection of lunch dishes. We start with a hearty mushroom toast topped with sautéed chanterelles, king oyster mushrooms, and pickled black trumpets, finished with a mushroom sauce foamed using a siphon. The seasoning here lacks a bit of zing, but that is amply compensated for by a crushingly crisp, buttery tartlet filled with crisply fried veal sweetbreads boasting a meltingly tender interior. It’s beautifully paired with pickled white asparagus, sautéed morels, and a chicken cream sauce you’ll want to lick clean. Alongside her extensive collection of homemade snaps, Michelle Hemme has curated an exciting wine list featuring primarily classic bottles from top producers, available at remarkably affordable prices. Paired with the tartlet, she recommends a glass of fruity red Chassagne-Montrachet, which is not only exceptionally well-priced but also pairs flawlessly with the mushrooms and delicate meat. Cheers to the dynamic duo Hemme and Spolum, a brilliant addition to Odense’s vibrant restaurant scene.
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