The story
Au Fil du Zinc sits on Rue des Moulins in the heart of Chablis, a village synonymous with world-class white wine. This Michelin Recommended address brings a contemporary edge to the Burgundy dining scene, serving modern cuisine in a relaxed, air-conditioned setting. Open for both lunch and dinner, the restaurant is fully accessible by wheelchair and offers table service that matches the quality of the kitchen.
The kitchen’s approach is rooted in modern cuisine, with plates that reflect the seasons and the produce of the region. While the menu changes regularly, the consistent thread is a respect for ingredient-led cooking. The dining room is welcoming, the pace unhurried – a place where the meal itself is the focus.
True to its location, Au Fil du Zinc features an interesting wine list. Chablis Premier Cru and Grand Cru bottles sit alongside well-chosen labels from further afield, giving guests the chance to pair each course with a glass suited to the dish. The team’s knowledge of the local vineyards adds a layer of authenticity to the experience.
Recognition
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Details
History
There’s something new in Chablis! Fabien Espana handed over the keys to his restaurant Au Fil du Zinc to Mathieu Sagardoytho, the former chef at Agapé in Paris. You won’t find any major changes to the dining room (exposed stone walls, whitewashed rafters, pistachio green velvet armchairs) with the Serein River babbling away peacefully down below… But the dishes really shake things up! The day we went for lunch, the €34 menu included: a masterful duo of sardines from La Trinité-sur-Mer (the first prepared as a crispy yet tender fillet breaded in cornmeal, the second served raw in a very tangy marinade), paired with a green curry gazpacho with cucumber, coconut and basil; a cheeky pigeon (thigh confit and roasted breast meat) with Mirabelle plums, chard leaves and root, plus pigeon liver cooked in butter and Vietnamese pepper; before a very harmonious dessert of white peach slices and white peach sorbet, with a hibiscus and Sichuan pepper cream, meringue petals and whipped cream – a stunning combo! FYI: the chef also offers up five- or seven-course tasting menus. // G.D.
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