The story
In the small forge village of Montcenis, between the Morvan massif and the slopes of Burgundy, Dominique and Laurent Dufour have been welcoming guests for nearly twenty years. Their restaurant occupies a late 19th-century building, once a coaching inn, now a cozy and refined space that evolves with rotating exhibitions by local artists.
Chef Laurent Dufour, originally from the South-West of France, fell in love with the region and its terroir. With his team, he creates a cuisine that is both creative and light, built exclusively on fresh ingredients. The menu changes with the seasons, and vegetables play a starring role. He harmoniously combines regional products with the emblematic black diamond of Périgord – truffle.
Dominique, as the host, ensures a discreet, professional, and genuinely kind service. The wine list, her domain, features a beautiful selection of Burgundy wines alongside bottles from other regions, offering a journey in every glass.
Le Montcenis has held a Michelin Bib Gourmand for 20 years, a testament to its consistent quality and good value. Gault & Millau also highlights the restaurant as a well-run house with a neo-rustic, very refined setting and an engaging welcome that gives a chic yet familial tone to the entire experience.
Chef Dufour masters the traditional and regional repertoire, adding his own seasonal twists. Think beef cheek fondant with foie gras royale and beetroot-rhubarb chutney, or fillet of turbot breaded in puffed corn and crispy Emmental, with a morel and asparagus parmentier and sherry jus. The Gourmet menu at €42 is an excellent choice, and the cellar is rich in Burgundy, especially Côte Chalonnaise.
From December to March, the chef indulges his passion for truffle. Le Montcenis offers dishes centered around the Tuber Melanosporum – Périgord black truffle – sourced directly from an artisan producer in Quercy Périgord. Freshly shaved or cooked, it perfumes every dish, intoxicating the senses. The dining room, with its vaulted cellar section, adds to the memorable experience.
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