Celebrated table
The story
Colombian chef Juan David Pulgarin directs the kitchen at El Barrio Marsella in Marseille, where he applies his classical training to everyday Mexican cooking. His spot recently earned a listing in Le Fooding after critics noted how the neighborhood location successfully bridges high technique with street food accessibility. The menu avoids pretense, focusing instead on honest flavors that travel well and satisfy quickly.
The kitchen serves Argentine empanadas filled with melted mozzarella and slow cooked onions alongside fresh Mexican tacos. Vegetarian diners can order grilled oyster mushrooms while meat lovers choose shredded chicken paired with ripe tomatoes and traditional hogao sauce. Every taco arrives with bright cilantro and a sharp chimichurri drizzle. A seasonal mullet ceviche rounds out the savory options with toasted Andean corn kernels.
The venue operates as both a neighborhood café and a small grocery store in one continuous flow. Bright yellow metal chairs line the outdoor terrace while interior shelves display bags of corn flour, dried chilies, and local coffee. Patrons grab takeaway orders or sit down for an affordable lunch that moves at a relaxed pace. Sweet finishes typically feature banana bread or alfajores layered with thick dulce de leche.
Recognition
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