The story
Les Rigoles in Marseille delivers a refined approach to counter dining and small plates. Founders Antoine Levollant, Franck Laborde, and Antoine Martini transformed the former Il Capriolo into this lively space that recently secured a listing in Le Fooding’s 2026 guide. They painted the exterior in warm terra cotta tones and installed a sweeping zigzagging bar. The open layout keeps the kitchen visible while encouraging steady conversation.
Johann Barichasse leads the pass after training under Manon Fleury at Mermoz and working through notable stops at Penny Lane and Mokoloco. He treats the menu as a series of concentrated bites rather than heavy courses. Every dish relies on sharp contrasts and balanced heat to carry the flavor forward.
The Marseille kitchen builds each round around textured ingredients and precise seasoning. Guests begin with crunchy radishes resting on whipped bottarga butter before tackling a rich fricassé packed with bonito tartare and homemade harissa. Savory turns feature tender beef and lamb kefta accompanied by garlic cream and charred Padrón peppers. Sweet finishes arrive equally calculated, such as the poached apricot set beside a quenelle of orange blossom ice cream.
Outdoor seating extends the dining room toward Boulevard Longchamp when temperatures rise. Live jazz and bossa nova sets anchor the schedule several nights each month. Patrons often linger at the bar, matching their pace to the relaxed musical backdrop.
Recognition
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