The story
Just off the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, at the corner of two quiet streets in the 8th arrondissement, Bistrot Marloe has the air of a neighbourhood spot that happens to serve exceptional food. The room is chic and cosy, with a terrace that catches the afternoon light, and the welcome is genuine.
Chef Igor Compagnoni leads the kitchen, building a menu that changes regularly and draws on excellent ingredients. The Michelin Guide, which recommends the restaurant, describes the cooking as “maîtrisée et sans esbroufe” – controlled and without fuss. That restraint is the point: dishes are allowed to speak for themselves. Gault & Millau has noted a Greek-style octopus carpaccio with feta and Kalamata olives, line-caught red tuna seared on the plancha with Zephyr courgettes and Datterino tomatoes in a lobster oil, and an apricot tart with light pistachio cream. Even the burger – dry-aged steak, lingonberry ketchup, fries – is treated with the same precision.
Laetitia, who oversees the wine list, has brought in a thoughtful selection of bottles that she is eager to share. The whole operation feels like a natural extension of the team’s experience (they also run the starred restaurant Arôme nearby), but Bistrot Marloe stands on its own as a place to eat well, without ceremony. It is modern cuisine at its most accessible and assured.
Recognition
Ambience
Location