The story
Chef Jonathan Schweizer brings his precise approach to French neobistro cooking at Café Les Deux Gares in Paris. Working alongside manager Frédéric Lesire above the Gare de l’Est tracks, he draws on training at the Institut Paul Bocuse and experience at Sauvage to build menus that balance simplicity with exact technique. The kitchen operates as a steady engine, shifting focus between classic bistrot foundations and sharper seasonal accents.
Diners often return for the smoking hot mussels from Groix, glazed in garlic oil and lifted with fresh lovage. The menu rotates through crisp chicken thighs resting on pointy cabbage and spring onions, all coated in a rich crab bisque. Sweetbreads arrive alongside cauliflower and charred garlic, while a late summer plate pairs octopus ragù with ripe plums. Even the desserts follow this grounded logic, featuring crème brûlée topped with a thin caramel shell and crushed Piedmont hazelnuts.
British designer Luke Edward Hall shaped the interior around an ornate bar, light wood tables, and curved Thonet chairs. The layout flows directly onto a sun-drenched terrace where guests pause between lunch and dinner service. Natural wines line the shelves, chosen deliberately to match the straightforward French cooking without overpowering it. Le Fooding recognized this consistent execution by listing the spot as a top bistro, noting how the space and plates work together to keep regulars returning.
Recognition
Ambience
Location
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