The story
Deux Gares Express in Paris delivers a focused approach to French neo-bistro cooking just above the elevated tracks of the Gare de l’Est.
Founders Frédéric Lesire and chef Jonathan Schweizer built the venue around a deliberately vintage term that evokes both steam engines and rapid plating. Working alongside Ilaria Conti, the neo-bistro kitchen maintains a tightly curated roster of bistro classics prepared with exacting technique. This commitment to efficient yet thoughtful service secured their inclusion in the 2026 Le Fooding guide, where critics noted how quickly plates reach the table without sacrificing quality.
The menu centers on high-performance comfort food designed for immediate satisfaction. A croque-monsieur built with smoked butter and Lacaune ham achieves a precise soft-to-crisp ratio, while saucisse-purée and œuf mayo topped with horse parsley offer reliable daytime fuel. Guests can also order house-made sandwiches, celery remoulade, and Cantabrian anchovies alongside selections from the local cheesemonger Taka & Vermo. Pastries arrive daily from the neighboring Sain bakery to complete the lineup of French bistro cooking.
Designer Luke Edward Hall shaped the interior palette around clean lines and tactile materials that complement the outdoor seating area. Patrons frequently claim tables near the railing to watch trains pass while sipping natural wine through the afternoon heat. The café window stays open during warmer months, allowing fresh air to mix with the scent of toasted bread and simmering soups. Even on a rushed schedule, the layout encourages guests to linger over an affogato or a citrus tartlet before heading back toward the platforms.
Recognition
Ambience
Location