The story
Il Grano in Paris sits inside a converted grain store that now houses an Italian-Mediterranean kitchen. Claudio da Silva assumed control in January 2025 after working at Autrement in Biel. He intends to preserve the establishment’s longstanding culinary traditions while introducing a lighter, more contemporary approach. The 2026 Gault & Millau score acknowledges this transition without abandoning the venue’s established reputation.
The kitchen prioritizes organic produce and works closely with regional suppliers to keep menus aligned with harvest cycles. Regular guests often start with the Antipastino selection to divide among the table, paired with focaccia fatto in casa filled with roasted peppers or cured ham. Substantial mains feature finely diced tatare di manzo tossed in olive oil and lemon, or vitello tonnato layered with caper-studded tuna cream. The fixed evening progression typically moves from a fish stew into lamb loin served over white wine risotto, finishing with a passion fruit panna-cotta dotted with coconut crumbs.
Wooden beams and restored stonework frame the main dining area, which takes on a softer glow when candles are lit after dusk. Staff members curate the wine list around bottles stored in the basement cellar, drawing primarily from Italy and Portugal to complement the coastal recipes. Patrons can also step outside during warmer months to dine on the expansive terrace running alongside the river. The layout encourages unhurried conversation between courses.
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