The story
At Komatsubaki in Paris, Chef Yoichi Kino channels his background at Comme des Poissons into a focused Japanese kitchen. Working alongside sous-chef Ryuma Takubo, he structures meals around traditional kaiseki principles and omakase service. Each course arrives with measured timing, allowing ingredients to speak without distraction. This disciplined approach recently secured a listing in Le Fooding, which noted the precise execution behind every plate.
A typical tasting menu moves through delicate preparations like bass tartare finished with gold leaf and langoustine paired with fried eggplant and chanterelle mushrooms in a light dashi broth. The chefs balance raw elements against warm techniques, showcasing silky bluefin tuna, flame-charred salmon, and ikura resting on toasted sesame rice. Vegetable plates arrive with equal care, featuring seasonal combinations like fresh peas, edamame, and salted plum sushi wrapped in precise nigiri form. The progression concludes with a fatty tuna and scallion futomaki before transitioning to gentle desserts like genmaicha dusted tofu cream and strawberry mochi.
Architect Ryuichi Nakamura shaped the interior to match the food’s restrained pace, carving out a hinoki wood counter that seats twelve guests. Behind the main floor lies a private lounge fitted with tatami mats for more secluded seating. The space feels grounded through natural materials and low lighting, letting the kitchen remain the focal point. Patrons often pair their multi-course meal with a curated sake flight or a glass of Burgundy wine to complement the shifting flavors across the counter.
Recognition
