Le Café de l'Usine

Good things come to those who wait… with hungry bellies? After a rather lackluster initial visit to Le Café de l’Usine, things have taken a turn: Alice Arnoux is bounding with energy and ideas under the industrial glass roof of the former Usine Spring Court factory, now home to the iconic sneaker brand’s headquarters. Far from factory-line-cooking, the chef who sharpened her skills under René Redzepi and Alexandre Gauthier has put together a perfectly-paced bistro experience in a space done up with polished concrete, wrought-iron details and a wood-burning stove. Warmed by the fire the day we went for lunch, we made sure to taste a little bit of everything: comforting smoked Perche sausage bathed in a rustic, minestrone-style soup; a slice of toasted brioche spread with smoked ricotta, cavolo nero chips and flavor-packed grated pecorino; blushing veal fillet alongside a well-balanced potato purée with a roasted onion, exceptional homemade fermented mustard and a jus de viande so glossy you could practically see your own reflection in it; and a less generous bundle of roasted salsify, lounging on a brown butter pear compote. What about dessert, you ask? We opted for an elegant frangipane tarte with flame-charred grapefruit supremes, devoured while a pianist played a tune up in the mezzanine section. At night, the four-course menu borrows from the lunchtime selection, and during the rest of the day, there are sweet and savory snacks to tide you over – taramasalata, saucisson, cake of the day, chocolate pudding, etc. · Laszlo Dela