The story
On a quiet stretch of rue de la Villette, just steps from Métro Jourdain, Le Cheval d'Or brings a focused vision of Asian cuisine to the 19th arrondissement. The restaurant's name, written in both French and Chinese characters (金马车), signals the cultural dialogue at play here—one that earned it a place in the Michelin guide's Recommended selection, a nod to its precise cooking and warm hospitality.
The dining room is small and understated, with air conditioning ensuring comfort year-round. Service runs Monday through Friday from 19h to 21h, making it a destination for unhurried weeknight dinners. The atmosphere is intimate, the kind of place where the kitchen's attention to detail is felt at every table.
Le Cheval d'Or's cuisine is firmly Asian, though the menu avoids easy categorization. The cooking draws on techniques and ingredients from across the continent, presented with a restraint that lets each element speak. While specific dishes are not detailed on the restaurant's own site, the Michelin recognition speaks to a kitchen that balances flavor and finesse.
The wine list is complemented by a notable sake selection, a rare and thoughtful addition that pairs naturally with the food. For those who prefer to explore, the sake list offers a curated journey through Japan's brewing traditions.
The restaurant's address—21 rue de la Villette—places it in a diverse, vibrant corner of Paris, away from the tourist crowds. Le Cheval d'Or has become a local favorite, drawing diners who appreciate its consistent quality and serene setting. The team takes a short summer break each August, a sign of a kitchen that values balance as much as its guests do.
For a quiet evening of refined Asian cuisine in Paris, Le Cheval d'Or delivers exactly what its Michelin recommendation promises: a meal worth remembering.
Recognition
Details
History
Revive the tarnished shine of a cherished address? One golden quartet have certainly risen to the challenge, that being the dazzling Hanz Gueco (ex-Verjus) and Luis Andrade (Clown Bar and Fripon) in the kitchen, with Crislaine Medina wielding the corkscrew (also ex-Fripon) and their partner Nadim Smair (who trained under David Toutain), who took the reins of Cheval d’Or with panache in the heights of Belleville. While the decor hasn’t changed since the days of Florent Ciccoli and Taku Sekine, the narrow alley with raw plaster walls lined with tables acts like a launch pad for the procession of Chinese bistro dishes flying from the open kitchen. Like the remarkable stuffed ducks, stamping the ground, or, our order of heady red tuna tartare with watermelon and black beans, topped with egg yolk and crispy wonton chips; an umami-esque pork belly tatin with red pepper and rhubarb, dotted with crunchy pearl onions glazed with a sweet and sour sauce; titillating cockles doused in Provençal-style XO sauce atop a vermicelli cake – just like you’d get in Taiwan; and for the cheats-free finish, a fabulous floating island in black tea, with tapioca pearls and candied almonds. In other words, you’d be wrong not to bet on this Cheval d’Or! // Henriette Ma
Revive the tarnished shine of a cherished address? One golden quartet have certainly risen to the challenge, that being the dazzling Hanz Gueco (ex-Verjus) and Luis Andrade (Clown Bar and Fripon) in the kitchen, with Crislaine Medina wielding the corkscrew (also ex-Fripon) and their partner Nadim Smair (who trained under David Toutain), who took the reins of Cheval d’Or with panache in the heights of Belleville. While the decor hasn’t changed since the days of Florent Ciccoli and Taku Sekine, the narrow alley with raw plaster walls lined with tables acts like a launch pad for the procession of Chinese bistro dishes flying from the open kitchen. Like the remarkable stuffed ducks, stamping the ground, or, our order of heady red tuna tartare with watermelon and black beans, topped with egg yolk and crispy wonton chips; an umami-esque pork belly tatin with red pepper and rhubarb, dotted with crunchy pearl onions glazed with a sweet and sour sauce; titillating cockles doused in Provençal-style XO sauce atop a vermicelli cake – just like you’d get in Taiwan; and for the cheats-free finish, a fabulous floating island in black tea, with tapioca pearls and candied almonds. In other words, you’d be wrong not to bet on this Cheval d’Or! // Henriette Ma
Location
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