The story
Moderno brings uncomplicated Italian cooking to Paris under the direction of Francesca Aneda. The chef founded the space to channel the straightforward warmth of her native Taranto into the twentieth arrondissement. After training at Le Comptoir near Gambetta, she brings her regional focus directly to the kitchen. This dedication earned the restaurant a spot on the 2026 Le Fooding list, which praised its honest balance between Apulian flavors and Parisian ease.
The menu centers on Campania and Puglia with preparations that favor texture over heavy sauce. Guests often start with zizzona di battipaglia, a soft Campanian cheese served alongside crusty white bread. Warm smoked scamorza melts over charred radicchio, king oyster mushrooms, and a sharp balsamic glaze. Stuffed green cabbage follows, packed with pearl barley, artisanal sausage, and creamed broad beans.
Polished concrete floors and matte wooden tables ground the space in quiet modernity. A large checkered mirror wall reflects the counter dining setup where staff members Nunzio and Wally guide guests through the service. The layout encourages a relaxed pace that matches the casual pricing strategy. The Italian kitchen maintains its grounded rhythm across every course.
Recognition
