Sellae

The story

Sellae in Paris: Thibault Sombardier's Neo-Bistro with Modern French Cuisine

Sellae: A Neo-Bistro in the 13th

In the 13th arrondissement, Sellae is the kind of neighbourhood bistro that feels both fresh and familiar. The dining room has been fully redone with a Fifties influence—a setting that Gault & Millau calls “a frank success.” It is the project of Thibault Sombardier, a chef whose name is well known in the city, and whose approach is defined by one word: gourmandise. His menu is described as a Franco-Italian score, and L’EXPRESS calls it “excellent.”

The kitchen is led by chef Maxime Beauvais, whose résumé includes Taillevent, the Fitzgerald, and the Fables de la Fontaine. Like Sombardier, Beauvais is driven by generosity of flavour. His cooking is marked by clear, confident tastes: a cassolette of snails with herb butter and smoked duck breast, or thin slices of sea bream with a lemon-ginger vinaigrette.

The menu is built for sharing and for lingering. Small plates include a creamy tarama with bottarga and lime, and a country-style terrine. Larger plates range from a risotto with pea cream and green asparagus to a 200g Normandy beef fillet with pepper sauce and house fries. A 39€ set menu offers a choice of starters like leek vinaigrette or pistachio-studded brioche sausage, followed by mains such as confit pork cheek with parmesan mash.

The atmosphere is lifted by the presence of Emeric, a local fixture whose energy makes it easy to lose track of time. And as the restaurant itself puts it, no evening at Sellae ends without a good bottle of wine.

Recognised by the Michelin guide as Recommended, Sellae is a place where modern cuisine is served with genuine warmth and a sense of occasion—without pretence.