Celebrated table
The story
Toy brings a focused Japanese kitchen to the twelfth arrondissement of Paris, built on a partnership between chef George Black and Les Œillets proprietor Solal Martin-Grondard. Black spent three years refining his craft across New York and Tokyo before settling into this shared venture. The duo merged their backgrounds to create a space that prioritizes consistent, high-quality bowls over fleeting trends. Their collaboration remains firmly rooted in daily service rather than temporary pop-up formats.
The menu centers on broths that draw heavily from traditional techniques while embracing modern clarity. Slurpers choose between a deeply savory smoked eel dashi or a rich vegetarian base finished with white miso, wild mushrooms, and coconut oil. Each bowl arrives with thin, springy noodles that hold their texture against the liquid. A standout addition features a crisp pork and shrimp wonton that adds substantial crunch to every spoonful.
The interior embraces raw steel and poured concrete, creating a straightforward backdrop that keeps attention on the food. Patrons gather along the counter as the kitchen rotates through authentic small plates alongside the main bowls. The beverage program pairs these dishes with low-intervention wines, complementing the Japanese culinary approach without overpowering the delicate broths. Even the dessert course avoids conventional mochi, offering lighter finishes to close out the meal.
Recognition