The story
At Auberge des Montagnards in Pontarlier, Belgian chef Anthony Bèque leads a kitchen dedicated to authentic French-Swiss cuisine. He sources organic vegetables and fruit directly from Fribourg growers, which keeps the daily menu anchored in seasonal reality rather than fleeting trends. This hands-on approach earned him an immediate step up to a thirteen-point rating from Gault&Millau during his first year taking over from founder Nicolas Darnauguilhem. Every component arrives prepared from scratch, whether it is a smoked duck breast glazed with mirabelle and lavender or a simple green salad dressed with fig leaf oil.
The lunch counter features a ceviche of lake fercha paired with melon and verbena, while the evening service highlights a beef tartare pickled with shallots and finished with wild garlic. Fries are fried in pure beef fat following Brussels tradition, pairing well with either a Gruyère pork chop cooked with chimichurri or a pan-seated perch served with brown butter and verjus. Sweet courses rotate between roasted prunes whipped with meadowsweet cream and a hazelnut tart that echoes the region’s orchard harvests. A glass of house-distilled plum spirit often closes the meal alongside these carefully plated desserts.
Staff led by Maëlle Gordien guide guests through a cellar focused heavily on natural and biodynamic labels, including Chasselas from Môtier and biodynamic Côtes du Rhône. Draft taps pour locally brewed blonde ales and white IPAs, complementing the straightforward wooden tables and unpretentious layout. The space operates as a neighborhood gathering point where Thursday and Friday lunches remain accessible without diluting the quality of this village bistro fare. Regular visitors return for the consistent pacing and the quiet confidence of a kitchen that measures success in full plates rather than applause.
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