The story
Le Central is the lively brasserie and épicerie of the Troisgros family, located directly across from the Roanne train station. For over 30 years, it has been a local hub of conviviality, offering what the family describes as "cuisine ménagère, inventive et vraie" – home-style cooking that is both inventive and true. This is modern cuisine in its most welcoming form, rooted in the same philosophy that has made the Troisgros name synonymous with French gastronomy.
Unlike the three-Michelin-starred Le Bois sans feuilles in nearby Ouches, Le Central is an everyday restaurant where the energy is relaxed and the food is direct. The space doubles as an épicerie, allowing guests to take a piece of the Troisgros kitchen home. The atmosphere is warm and unpretentious, a reflection of the family's belief that hospitality should feel like an invitation to a friend's table.
Le Central's menu changes regularly, but a recent 30th-anniversary edition highlighted the dishes that regulars love most. The meal begins with "Mange-doigts" (finger foods) and a "Bouillon de confiance" (trust broth), followed by raw beef with green anchovy sauce, then sturgeon escalope with Swiss chard and mint, and finishes with a frozen coffee "Zuni." These are the kind of plates that show off the Troisgros touch – precise, seasonal, and full of flavour, without any unnecessary fuss.
Le Central's consistent quality has earned it a Michelin Recommended distinction, a testament to the Troisgros family's ability to deliver modern cuisine that is both sophisticated and approachable. Whether you stop in for a quick lunch or a leisurely dinner, you are experiencing the legacy of four generations of chefs who have made Roanne a destination for fine, honest food.
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