The story
Les Ateliers des Grands Cèdres brings a fresh approach to seasonal French cuisine every month in the village of Cordelle near Roanne. Rather than maintaining a static menu, the kitchen operates through a series of monthly chef residencies that unfold across the summer schedule. This recent cycle featured Swedish chef Palle Paulsson, who refined his techniques during his time at Le Chateaubriand under Iñaki Aizpitarte. His appointment ensured that the culinary direction remained intentionally fluid and responsive to incoming talent.
The kitchen applies this same French cooking philosophy to every plate by partnering with two nearby organic market gardens. Paulsson’s service highlighted line caught bluefin tuna crudo dressed with ginger oil, tomatoes, and capers before transitioning to braised cod resting alongside smashed potatoes and carrots. Guests concluded their meals with a bright lemon posset layered with strawberries and elderflower granita. The beverage program mirrors this agricultural focus by offering locally pressed juices and a curated list of living wines.
Diners gather on an expansive terrace that overlooks ten hectares of mature cedars and the distant Monts de la Madeleine. Rainy afternoons simply shift the service into the former wine cellar, which now functions as a loft style dining room with exposed stone and relaxed proportions. The broader estate continues its creative mission through ceramic workshops led by founder Maxime Vavasseur and overnight stays in scattered gîtes. This steady recognition from Le Fooding reflects how seamlessly the hospitality model blends residential artistry with everyday regional cuisine.
Recognition
Ambience
Location
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