Grand Hôtel du Lion d'Or

The story

Grand Hôtel du Lion d'Or: Michelin-Starred Modern Cuisine in Romorantin-Lanthenay

A Living Piece of French Culinary History

In the heart of the Loire Valley, the Grand Hôtel du Lion d’Or has been serving guests since 1774, making it one of the oldest restaurants in France. Housed in a Renaissance-style mansion built in 1540 for a friend of King Francis I, the property has been a hotel, café, and restaurant continuously for over two and a half centuries. Its restaurant appeared in the very first Michelin Guide published in 1900 and holds a Michelin star today—a testament to its enduring commitment to high-quality cooking.

The Clément family has owned the hotel since 1961. Chef Didier Clément, who joined with his wife Marie-Christine in 1980, now leads the kitchen, supported by their daughter Hélène. In 2024, the family celebrated the 250th anniversary of the establishment.

Chef Didier Clément’s Modern Cuisine

Clément describes himself as a “guardian of his terroir,” drawing inspiration from ancient French cookbooks and walks in the Sologne forest. He is a pioneer in unearthing forgotten spices and ancient ingredients. His signature style combines subtle and pronounced flavors, built around ingredients like angelica, wild thyme, elderberry, and what he calls “cooking tobacco”—a powder made from a dozen varieties of foraged mushrooms.

Standout dishes described on the restaurant’s own site include:

• Sologne white asparagus served three ways: as a jelly with parsley and asparagus ice cream, raw in almond milk, and lukewarm with pea sabayon and bacon powder.
• Breton jumbo shrimp with seeds of paradise – a medieval spice the Cléments rediscovered after a year and a half of research. The dish earned a perfect 20/20 from critic Christian Millau.
• Mushroom Napoleon with “Cooking Tobacco” – mushrooms foraged in the forest, dried, and ground into a snuff-like powder.
• “Bazar” bar – line-caught sea bass with fennel, celery, and lemon confit, created to pair with a special vintage from winemaker Didier Dagueneau.
• “Babylon” style stuffed pigeon – a dish that echoes the oldest known recipes in the world, dating back 20 centuries before Christ.
• Caramelized brioche with angelica – a gourmet dessert inspired by a walk in the gardens of Villandry.

The Setting and Cellar

The dining room features ancient woodwork, church-style stone slabs, bas-relief, sun-shaped mirrors, and modern lighting. The wine list boasts more than 800 bottles, with 250 dedicated to Loire Valley wines, including exclusive vintages developed with winemakers like Didier Dagueneau.

The restaurant earned the Label Green Food in 2023 for its eco-responsible approach, reflecting Clément’s commitment to local farmers, rare vegetables, and sustainable practices.

An Experience Rooted in Place

For Clément, “the notion of terroir takes on a geographical, cultural, and imaginative dimension. Terroir is a space in the mind.” His modern cuisine is both a tribute to the Loire Valley’s bounty and a bold exploration of flavors long forgotten. The result is a dining experience that feels both historic and entirely new.