The story
Le Coquillage occupies Château Richeux, a 1920s villa overlooking the bay of Saint-Malo. The dining room windows frame a living tableau: the shifting skies of the bay and the intricate patterns of the tidal flats.
Hugo Roellinger, named Chef of the Year by Le Chef magazine and awarded three Michelin stars, describes his cooking as a quest for the taste of the abyss and the spray, of hedgerows and maritime adventure. With his équipage (crew), he tells the story of his love for Brittany, honoring local producers, fishermen, and farmers, while drawing on spices from distant shores. The kitchen’s ethos is one of preservation: nature and its riches are essential to the act of cooking.
The kitchen serves no meat. Instead, the single tasting menu, "Au Gré du Vent et de la Lune" (275 € per person), evolves with the daily catch and the garden’s harvest. A shorter lunch menu, "A l'Abri des Flots", is also offered. Bread is baked on site in a wood-fired oven using ancient, local organic flours and natural leaven.
Le Coquillage received three stars from the Michelin guide in 2025, adding to a Green Star awarded in 2020 for its sustainable approach. The commitment to nature extends beyond the plate: the gardens around the villa – the Celtic vegetable garden with its standing stones, the greenhouse, the field of wind – are home to aromatic herbs, donkeys, cows, and frogs. Guests are invited to wander after their meal.
A meal at Le Coquillage is a pause, a chance to taste the sea and the land, and to feel the rhythm of the tides.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
Exceptional cuisine
Following in his father Olivier’s footsteps, Hugo Roellinger meticulously pairs the local terroir (herbs and the cream of the crop from the vegetable patch, prized vegetables, maritime treasures…) with his magical powders unearthed from the four corners of the globe. At his Richeux château, complete with a garden filled with wonders (an orchard, beehives, a Celtic kitchen garden and a bread oven), facing the Mont Saint-Michel Bay, you can savor a plethoric series of delicacies, like on the €85 lunch menu: a stupefying “cotriade des lointains” (fish stew) inspired by a Cancale fishermen recipe, with a sublime dried mackerel bone broth with vegetables, seaweed and his poudre des vertus spice mix (made with a base of pepper, seaweed and turmeric), small new potatoes, marinated palourde clams, lime and puya chili, all served with slices of marinated mackerel. Then followed brill cooked over the embers, caressed by a hollandaise sauce with elderflower oil and Neelamundi pepper. For dessert, the legendary dessert cart has given way to generous individual platters (due to Covid), on which we found a maddeningly good homemade millefeuille, an addictive Paris-Cancale (a puff pastry stuffed with pistachio cream), a caramel-chocolate tart or even some vivifying strawberries with dulse seaweed. // S.L.
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