The story
Down a quiet lane in Plourhan, minutes from the port of Saint-Quay-Portrieux, the old Moulin Rolland has been entirely remade. Here, the soundtrack is birdsong and the stream running past the terrace. Pierre Bonnefont and his team welcome guests to a restaurant that feels both secluded and effortlessly connected to its surroundings.
The kitchen is rooted in the sea—fish, shellfish and crustaceans from the nearby coast—and in the garden across the path. Since 2021, Emmanuel, Pierre’s brother, has been cultivating vegetables on living soil, selecting species for their flavour. His farm was certified organic from its first year. The menu is deliberately short, allowing the team to work with the utmost care on ingredients that arrive ultra-fresh.
There is no meat here. Instead, Rolland offers refined, inventive modern cuisine served in a simple setting—the Larousse definition of bistronomie made real. The cooking is precise, the flavours direct, the presentation unfussy.
The restaurant holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand for 2026, an award that rewards good quality, good value cooking. It fits Rolland naturally: a place that prioritises produce and technique over pomp, where the value is in the eating, not the extras.
Outdoor seating, parking and wheelchair access are available.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
good quality, good value cooking
The Bonnefont brothers (Emmanuel in the vegetable patch and Pierre, ex-Mare aux Oiseaux, in the kitchen) left Paris behind to remodel an abandoned mill in the village of Plourhan, deep in the Côtes-d’Armor countryside, but a mere five minutes from the Saint-Quay-Portrieux harbor. The result? Welcome to Rolland, a bistro with uninterrupted views of the fields and the open kitchen, which is heavily focused on seafood and (organic) vegetables grown on site. The day we went for lunch, there was toum (Lebanese garlic cream) to be spread on focaccia or homemade bread for the amuse-bouche; zucchini from the vegetable patch masterfully prepared two ways (roasted and as tempura), paired with sautéed shiitake mushrooms, plus a mint espuma for dipping and a haddock cream; very fresh mackerel fillets from the Saint-Quay fish market, electrified by a fennel compote and a tomato-rich jus; before an incredible rhubarb sorbet tucked up against a toasted almond emulsion with grilled almonds and a very pillowy madeleine for dessert. // Adrien Bir
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