The story
In the Loire-side village of Varades, between Nantes and Angers, Chef Jean-Marc Terrien runs a quiet, polished restaurant that earned a Michelin recommendation for its consistent, seasonal cooking. The dining room is air-conditioned and wheelchair-accessible, but the real draw appears in warm weather: a terrace bordered with rosebushes, facing the river and the abbey of Saint-Florent-le-Vieil.
Terrien, a Maître Restaurateur and member of the Collège Culinaire de France, builds his carte around the market and the seasons. Loire fish come from local artisanal fishermen – look for sandre (pike-perch) roasted with an embeurrée of cabbage in beurre blanc, or a croustillant of cod with the same cabbage. The menu changes constantly, but spring and summer bring dishes like gravlax salmon with melon and basil cream, or langoustine mesclun with orange.
Two fixed menus structure the meal. The shorter “La Meilleraie” (€38) offers an amuse-bouche, a choice of starter and main (or both fish and meat for €50), and dessert. The “La Closerie” menu (€57) adds a cheese course and more elaborate dishes – half pigeon with petits pois and jus, or a light lime soufflé with passion-fruit sorbet. A foie gras starter or beef supplement are available.
The restaurant is also a partner of the Vignobles et Découvertes network, with a wine list selected to accompany the cooking. Takeaway is offered for those who prefer to enjoy the food at home.
Recognition
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Details
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