The story
Martin Thommen steers the kitchen at the Bären in Utzenstorf, managing operations as part of the property's fourteenth generation of hosts. The Gault&Millau guide awarded the Swiss gasthaus a score of 15, recognizing a balanced approach to Swiss cuisine that honors heritage while embracing contemporary technique. Thommen applies methods refined during his training in leading establishments across Switzerland and Germany to dishes centered on seasonal availability and regional quality.
Appetizers showcase careful preparation, beginning with a thin carpaccio dressed in Pommery mustard mayonnaise, pickled vegetables, and shards of Sbrinz cracker. Robust mains highlight roasted veal loin served with velvety hollandaise, pan-fried potatoes, and crisp white asparagus. The fish course features egli from Lake Ringgenberg wrapped in a millet crust, plated with wilted spinach and garnishes that reflect current seasonal harvests.
The dessert card preserves a distinct family heirloom with the Bärechöpfli, a confection originating in 1914 and linked to the Russian Tsar court. Chef Thommen's grandfather, Jakob Hubler, developed the recipe after cooking at the Hermitage in St. Petersburg before taking over the inn. Guests savor these sweets within the inn's comfortable rooms, surrounded by an atmosphere shaped by decades of continuous operation and attentive service.
Recognition
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