The story
Restaurant Bachstelze in Erfurt has built a steady reputation for regional German cooking over its modern revival. Maria Groß and her partner Matthias Steube took over the historic excursion house in Bischleben, a building that has welcomed visitors since 1931. They stripped away pretension to focus on what the Thuringian landscape provides. Their approach centers on unrefined ingredients sourced directly from local farmers and hunters, a method that earned Maria Groß the Falstaff title of Chef of the Year in 2026.
Guests gather around individually arranged tables for twelve to fourteen courses that shift with the harvest. Maria Groß prepares each plate while noting the provenance of the vegetables and meats. A late summer salad combines grilled red tomatoes, snow peas, and softly boiled eggs, while cooler evenings feature braised salsify or venison fillet with beetroot couscous. This consistent attention to seasonal sourcing defines their approach to nature-focused cuisine and matches the three ladles awarded by the Schlemmer Atlas this year.
The interior retains a vintage character with white vaulted ceilings and simple wooden furniture arranged beneath large windows. Warm weather moves the entire service beneath a century-old chestnut tree in the adjacent Biergarten. Matthias Steube curates a wine list highlighting innovative producers from the Saale-Unstrut region while homemade non-alcoholic drinks fill the remaining space. The relaxed pacing reflects a broader tradition of Thuringian cooking that values guest comfort over rigid formality.
Recognition
Ambience
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History
Concept TV chef Maria Groß invites guests punctually at 6:30 PM for a shared dinner in the historic excursion restaurant idyllically situated on the Gera river, where she also resides. The menu is vegetarian upon advance reservation. In fine weather, dining takes place outdoors beneath the mighty chestnut tree. Culinary Style Twelve to fourteen flavorful dishes are served, which Maria Groß prepares on the spot using whatever Thuringia's nature, along with friendly organic farmers and hunters, currently has to offer. She combines fresh and grilled red and yellow tomatoes, snow peas, sweet-and-sour apple sticks, and softly boiled country eggs into a delightful late-summer salad, or serves braised salsify with cognac-almond sauce, or venison fillet with beetroot couscous and lemon crème fraîche during the cooler months. Wine Groß's partner, Matthias Steube, presents wines from innovative vintners, including those from the Saale-Unstrut region. Excellent homemade non-alcoholic beverages are also available. Atmosphere A touch of fairy-tale castle ambiance, with candlesticks placed on elegantly set tables, while the snow-white decorated vaulted ceiling appears as if covered in icing. Dogs must remain outside. Conclusion A unique, highly personalized culinary experience.
Traditional garden restaurant in the green village of Bischleben with a beer garden. Welcoming hosts Maria Groß and Matthias Steube serve rustic cuisine downstairs and casual fine dining on the upper floor.
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