The story
Moya by Daniel Wallenstein in Gengenbach approaches modern German cuisine through an exacting lens. Daniel Wallenstein brings his training from Rosina Ostler’s Munich kitchen to this East Frisian native fresh start. He guides the kitchen with intuition and precision, letting seasonal ingredients dictate the menu rather than following fleeting culinary trends. The result is a clear eyed German cooking style that respects local produce while experimenting with temperature and texture.
A signature consommé rises at 94 degrees Celsius inside a glass coffee maker fitted with foraged herbs and forest berries. Pouring this aromatic liquid over Wagyu beef, black truffle, wild broccoli, and cauliflower florets creates a layered foundation for the meal. Another plate arrives beneath a glass half sphere containing a dense porcini pesto base. Roasted beech nuts and a delicate pistachio parsley sponge surround a quietly rich foie gras terrine within.
The salon sits comfortably inside the historic Boutiquehotel Die Reichsstadt, where five wooden tables create an unpretentious setting. Simple lines and modern furnishings keep the focus squarely on the food and conversation between guests. This restrained environment earned consistent praise from critics, with the Schlemmer Atlas and Der Feinschmecker awarding top marks for its honest execution.
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History
Since the end of 2025, Daniel Wallenstein has been leading the culinary operations and fine dining at the boutique hotel Die Reichsstadt. The new motto: A modern and artful German cuisine drawn from the "essence of nature".
Concept Daniel Wallenstein is considered a promising talent. The East Frisian is making a fresh start at Boutiquehotel Die Reichsstadt with nature-inspired cuisine. Two menus, 5–7 courses, with vegetarian options available. Cuisine Style The chef (most recently sous chef in Munich under Rosina Ostler at “Alois”) begins his menu with “Essence of Nature” – an infusion of consommé that rises at 94 degrees Celsius in the attachment of a glass coffee maker, filled with self-foraged herbs and berries. When poured over Wagyu, truffle, wild broccoli, and cauliflower florets, it evokes a profound sense of bliss. In the dish “Forest,” served inside a glass half-sphere, porcini pesto serves as the base. A sponge made of pistachios and parsley, along with roasted beech nuts, are among the many delicate elements showcasing varied textures – nestled within them lies a foie gras terrine. Surprisingly juicy, highly aromatic, and unique. Wine The wine list features around 150 selections, with a focus on Baden wines and international classics. Atmosphere The ambiance in the salon with its five tables is simple, modern, and cozy. Conclusion A culinary masterpiece in a cozy, inviting setting.
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